![]() Heat both areas simultaneously.įaster in and away offers less chance to ruin a component. Unless necessary never heat only the lead or pad. Remember the rule, always allow solder wet the areas and get in and out quickly. Pay attention to what your soldering iron is touching and how long it is there. Otherwise, select a temperature that works well with all types. If you work with a specific type of solder select a temperature suited for that type. When using spooled solder alloy type matters. Large capacitors, an example, will require more heat than other similar size parts. You will learn this over time while soldering. It may be slightly smaller on some components and larger on others.ĭifferent components require different heat to achieve the similar results. Usually selecting a tip that will get the job done for 95% of your work is the best trade-off. Keep your solder tip close to the same size as the area you are soldering. Tip size requirements change with the area and job you are soldering. Here are the considerations and my advice. ![]() They are bombarded with thoughts surrounding solder melting points and somewhat led to think the key to professional work results is only low temperatures will do the job. Many electrnoics hobbiest and technicians are misled when they hear things like temperature can add more damage than you started with. THE PROPER SOLDERING TEMPERATURE IS HIGHER THAN MANY THINK! If you are planning on doing final assembly with the iron, repair work for critical projects, etc, then you'll need to consider what you're doing more carefully than this general rule of thumb. Please note that I'm talking about prototyping, hobbyist, and one-off projects. Apply the iron, apply the solder, and remove both - it should take just a second or maybe two for surface mount, and 1-3 seconds for a through hole part. So if you do use higher tip temperatures, don't leave them on components any longer than necessary. It's not a big deal for many passive or small components, but it turns out that overall a higher tip temperature results in faster soldering and less likely damage to the component being soldered. The more quickly you bring the joint temperature up and solder it, the less time the soldering iron is on the joint, and thus the less heat gets transferred to the component. So the iron is expected to be hotter than the melting point of the solder so that the entire joint comes up to the melting point of the solder quickly. ![]() Keep in mind that the ideal situation is that the soldering iron heats up the joint enough that the joint melts the solder - not the iron. I think you'll find that very few soldering jobs will really require you to change your tip temperature. I'll change the tips according to what I'm soldering, and the tip size really ends up determining how much heat gets into the joint in a given period of contact. However, I don't micromanage my soldering temperature, and simply keep mine at 700F (370C). When soldering through hole components, 700F (370C) is useful to pump more heat into the wire and plated hole to solder it quickly.Ī negative capacitor lead to a heatsinking solid pour ground plane is going to need a big fat tip at a much higher temperature. When soldering surface mount components, a small tip and 600F (315C) should be sufficient to quickly solder the joint well without overheating the component. There is no proper soldering iron temperature just for a given type of solder - the iron temperature should be set for both the component and the solder. What’s the proper soldering iron temperature for standard. ![]()
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